View from Hotel Sevilla, Old Havana
I’ve been to the island nation two times, first for New Years 2017 around the time Obama opened the border for US travelers to visit and then again in 2019. In a matter of months the US went from a trickle to being the 2nd most represented country on the island (as per a local business owner). Now, given current US policy (no more “people-to-people” travel) the US is back to near zero.
Yet, that sense of “there are better times to come” is as alive today as ever. This is a place where the gig-economy is the rule, where your taxi driver could turn out to be a medical doctor, a mechanical engineer. It’s a place where folks are eager to talk about their lives and just as eager to talk about yours. A country where there are two currencies (+ the dollar, more on that later).
It’s also doorway to another era. 1950s Latin America. Yes, you’ll bump into the boxy Soviet Lada (as ubiquitous here as a Honda Civic in the USA) plus the American classics. But you will also get to experience a different time, where information travels by word of mouth. Getting a room for the night can happen by knocking on someone’s door. There is a common notion that Latinos laugh in the face of misery and Cuba is true to form. Music, culture, and optimism, these I find are the defining traits of this giant and beautiful anachronism.
Overview
3-4 days in Havana is good enough check out what the city has to offer while enjoying the laid back culture
Bring cash, your American credit and debit cards will not work here. Travelers from other parts of the world may have better luck (though not guaranteed)
Get out to other parts of island (e.g. Trinidad)
The experiences below will keep you busy day and night (more experiences and a Trinidad post to follow)
Preparing
Cuba is teeming with modern history and it would be a tragedy not to appreciate it. It's easy to catch up, two recos below:
Watch the "Cuba Libre" documentary on Netflix, which walks through the island's history from pre-colonial times to today.
Watch "Cuba and Cameraman" that captures the human-side of modern day Cuba.
A note on Money
Cuba has two currencies, the CUP and CUC. 1 CUP = 24 CUC = 1 US dollar. Back in the day CUC was reserved for foreigners; this has evolved:
2016: There was a clear demarc between these two systems, whereby locals used CUP and foreigners were able to exchange for CUC only (and generally used CUC). The only way to get CUP was if someone gave you change in local currency. Using US Dollars was not an option.
2019: As of November 2019 use of CUC is widespread among locals and visitors. In fact, as per my local tour guide most prices are now in CUC. Cuba is also running low on US dollars and as such dollars are now accepted in many places, including the airport! This is great as you're taxed 13% to change dollars to CUC (e.g. effectively 1 USD = 0.87 CUC).
In this last trip I used dollars for most of my purchases and never had to actually exchange for CUC. If you do find yourself needing to do so, there are "CADECAs" aka currency exchange offices in the city and airport. Your hotel may also offer exchange services without the fee. Finally, you can try paying in dollars and asking to get change in CUC, which I actually did with a taxi driver.
Where to stay
Option A (old-school bougie) This time around I stayed at "Hotel Sevilla". This is an old school (I believe 1920s structure). It's beautiful. The top floor features some of the best views of Havana I've seen to date. The rooms are 2 star level by Western standards. You can purchase wifi cards which work in the lobby and cost 1 CUC/USD.
Option B (guesthouse/bed&breakfast) There are also "guest houses" (where I stayed in 2016). You can always recognize these by the blue sign below. The guesthouse we stayed in was in old Havana, right by the Malecon. It was Western 1-star, but who cares? Everything worked (e.g. hot shower) sheets were clean and our host cooked an amazing breakfast for $5. We also got to talk with the family, which was great. The going rate was ~$25/night.
Option C (new-school bougie) As of the time of this post there were 2 new hotels on the Malecon. The "Iberostar Grand Packard" and "Vista al Prado", one built by the French, the other by the Spanish. Both are Western 4 star properties featuring views of the Malecon. If you're looking for luxury, then these options are for you.
FOR AMERICAN TRAVELERS: Please refer to the state's department list of restricted businesses. Many large hotels (including the Iberostar) may be found on this list: https://www.state.gov/cuba-sanctions/cuba-restricted-list/list-of-restricted-entities-and-subentities-associated-with-cuba-effective-as-of-november-19-2019/ If you're going under the "support for the Cuban people" category then you would want to opt for privately owned residences (option B)/Airbnbs anyways, which count.
NOTE: As of 2016 Airbnb was operating in Havana, but locals were having issues with payments (not great). This may not be Airbnb's fault entirely as Cuba's banking system is challenged (understatement) and this may be resolved.
Onto some experiences...
Walking the Streets of Havana
You've officially traveled to 1950s Latin America, what is essentially another planet and you can (and should) spend a day walking Havana and being absolutely astounded.
PRO TIP: Download "maps.me", which works off GPS and will provide will google-like navigation while in Cuba. You have to download the map for each region you're in (e.g. Havana). I've actually started to use this service regularly even when travelling to places "with internet" in case I have a bad signal.
Cuba doesn't really "build new things" in part due to the lack of basic materials such as cement and steel and in part due to lack of expertise. They do repair things. Constantly. You'll find grand pre-colonial structures (e.g. "Plaza Vieja"), where you would be justified in thinking you were in Spain (the old colonial masters). Turn of the century neoclassical (e.g. "El Capitolio"), art-deco reminisecent of Miami's 1930 shoreline (e.g. el Malecon / the bay) and stern Soviet living quarters in between all connected by a labyrinth of highly walkable streets, alleys and the occasional (beautiful) avenue. It's disorienting, sometimes a bit maddening and absolutely stunning.
There isn't a clear demarcation between residential neighborhoods and the points of interest above. As you walk among the narrow streets you'll see many residential buildings (usually 2-3 stories), which have balconies where neighbors gossip literally from one side of the street to another. This is made possible due to the narrow dimensions. It's also fun to watch.
I recommend grabbing a guidebook and dividing points of interest into East and West of Paseo Marti (the avenue which leads to "El Capitolio"; former congress). Then spend a day in each section visiting all of them on foot. Do checkout "La Floridita" (near Paseo Marti), which was Robert Hemingway's old watering-hole (he lived in Havana for 20 years, and wrote seminal works here).
Book a tour of Havana in a Classic Car
There's nothing quite like riding inside of a plush V8 monster. I highly recommend booking a 1-day tour of city inside of one these convertibles. It's a phenomenal way to see some of the sites that a little farther removed from the city center like the "Plaza de la Revolucion" and "artists village".
I recommend looking at tripadvisor, be sure to read the reviews. I can also recommend specific companies/guides, message me if interested (see "contact" section of this site).
If you're interested in taking pictures of these beauties galore then head to "Plaza de la Revolucion" where they all stop. Any tour should spend some time here anyway, which is a great place to debrief about modern Cuban History.
Las Terrazas (Farm)
Las Terrazas is a Unesco Biosphere Reserve and has a coffee plantation and farm-to-table restaurant. By the main entrance there's an outdoor lecture hall, where you can learn about the reserve from local staff. You'll also find a nice bar serving standard Cuban fare (e.g. Rum) and coffee, which by the way, is the best coffee I had in Cuba. I think I had 7 cups that day, each for 50 cents (eat your heart out Starbucks).
You'll find the restaurant atop a main hill. Our meal was composed of simple but phenomenal ingredients (roasted chicken, "ropa vieja"/beef stew, rice-and-beans, local roots and veggies). This was indeed the best meal I had in Cuba. After lunch (which is the main meal of the day in Latin America), you can take a stroll right outside the restaurant to admire the countryside from a high point. I recommend following this with a stroll to the base of the hill, where you'll find another coffee shop serving local brew.
You may be able to take a guided tour of the plantation, I did not not and encourage you, the traveler, to inquire about this. Leave a comment with what you find out!
Havana by Night
Nightlife options in Havana are limited, yet the best nightlife spot I've been to on Earth is here. There goes another paradox (in a country filled with them).
"Fabrica de Arte Cubano" (Factory of Cuban Art) aka F.A.C
What was once an old abandoned building is now a giant art gallery, multiple music venues, bars and a (hidden) restaurant. It's where you'll bump into the Cuban intelligentsia, which is fitting as you're surrounded by at times deeply subversive art. The great Anthony Bourdain did a spot here in his show "Parts Unknown":
All I can say is please spend an evening here. I've been here thrice, twice in 2016 (including NYE 2017) and recently in 2019. Explore every nook as there are random hidden art galleries (among the main areas).
I'll call out the speakeasy bar. On the second floor, if you walk straight back you'll find a small doorway. First step is to get through the bouncer, which I'll leave up to you to swing. If you convince the bouncer to let you through (some sample tactics below), you will be rewarded handsomely. To your left is the restaurant Bourdain highlighted (I can attest to the quality). It's a pretty cool setup, with kitchen and dining room in the same space. It also features small rooftop. Back to the hallway... walk to the back and you'll notice a wall with no art on it. It's a false wall, push it and you enter the large bar, which features higher end spirits and plenty of comfy couches. Even cooler, it has access to the mezzanine section of the main music / dance hall where you can party and admire the revelers from a comfy area.
Getting through the bouncer is by no means a given. I was lucky enough to get through the 3 times I was at F.A.C, each in a very different way:
First Night: I claimed that I "needed" some top shelf liquor and was not about to drink the swill at the other bars (which by the way, are well stocked).
Second Night / NYE 2017: I was accompanied by a very pretty lady. The bouncer turned us down, but it just so happened that management was walking by and was taken by my companion. He asked the bouncer to step back and the lady was gracious enough to grab my arm and drag me in. Note, once inside you can come and go all night.
Third Night: I was with a large group of expats in an organized tour. This was the same night we had dinner there. I was able to enter the section freely, it looks like booking dinner at the restaurant is the way to go.
Note, whether you find yourself in this area or not, there's plenty to enjoy at F.A.C regardless.
Below are two performances on two separate nights, which capture how electic this place is. Those two could have easily happened on the same night.
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